Monday, February 7, 2022

Lower Conner Mountain

It sucks to have a broken bike when it's your primary means of exercise and Adventure, but hey, that's how life is sometimes, right?

Whenever something breaks, I buy two replacements. I'm steadily amassing a pile of spare parts, but if it's something that hasn't broken before then it takes time for the part to come in, and even more time to get it working.

Shimano XT brakes are about the most bulletproof brakes out there, and yet the last two sets of them that I've owned have been nothing but trouble. Come to think of it, I've ALWAYS had a bad time with brakes. Back in the v-brake days, I had to fiddle with them non-stop. They would never return properly. One side always wanted to drag the rim. Even if I cleaned the hell out of them, lubed them, and adjusted them perfectly at home, after an hour on the trail, they'd suck again. If someone else adjusted them, it would be the same situation, despite theirs always working. I got a pair of Magura Martas way back, figuring they'd be better since Eddie had ridden them with no problem for years. Nope. Terrible. They constantly had to be bled, and if you'd bump a tree with the lever, it would blow out the piston in the lever and it would perpetually leak thereafter. Every pair of XT brakes I've owned has constantly needed to be bled, from day one. Glen, John, and I have all worked on them, and nobody could ever get them to work. Hell, John gave me a set of formerly-working XTRs from a bike that he's been cannibalizing for the past few years, and it turns out the pistons (in the calipers) are somehow super leaky. The bike has just been sitting in storage for a few years. How do ceramic pistons sealed against aluminum calipers go bad just sitting there in climate-controlled storage? The anwser is that since he gave them to me, they automatically went bad, as that is, apparently, a fundamental law of physics.

Enough ranting about brakes though. I say that my bike is my "primary means of exercise and Adventure" but it isn't my only means. I have two feet, and there's a whole world out there. So this past Sunday I went running around in the woods for a while.

I've been meaning to "finish" exploring lower Conner Mountain (below Cooper Gap Road) for a while now, so that's what I did. I parked about halfway up FS80, right by the old road, got my gear together, and got to it.

I haven't used my old GPS for quite a while. I've got an eTrex mounted on my stem, and that's what I use when I'm on the bike. I'm not sure if it's just getting old and busted, or if reception was just bad yesterday, but it just would not acquire satellites.

Acquiring Satellites

I eventually just stuck it in a pocket of my pack and hoped it would eventually acquire. My phone worked, and Strava can record, so I was covered on track data, I just couldn't mark any waypoints. Hopefully I wouldn't need to...

The first few spots that I wanted to check out turned out to be little logging networks. Interestingly, each of the little side trails started a ways up the backslope from the main road, but didn't continue below the road. I interpreted this as meaning that the road was cut, then the logging spurs were cut, and then the road was widened and improved later. I wonder if, at some point, it was officially FS80A.

There were a couple of interesting things out there.

It had rained a lot recently, and all over the place you could see the main path of a stream, and also new rivulets forming that just ran across open ground because some pool upstream was spilling over.

New Rivulets Forming

Streams wander and cut wide draws, or so you learn in Middle School Earth Science. It's neat to actually see it in action.

Of course... balloon.

Mylar Balloon

There was an actual cut for the road to pass through at one point.

Cut for the Road

These are fairly unusual. I only know of two other cuts like this - one on the connector between the Puncheon Express and Hightower Express, and one near No-Tell. Well, arguably the road leading into the Cooper Creek WMA from the Cooper Creek store has a huge one, but it's modern. Usually, for a road, they just go up over the hill. Why bother cutting through? Sometimes it happens naturally as it just gets worn down over time, but all the ones I've mentioned look deliberate. It is common on old railbeds. The other two above are definitely not old railbeds. This one has a chance of being, as its grade is super flat and consistent, but if it was, then it was very temporary and wouldn't have done anything but haul timber back to FS80. Unless lower FS80 was also a railbed... That seems unlikely though.

Who knows?

I'd spotted this trail once before some previous time I was out here, but wasn't sure it was actually a trail. You can kind-of make out a bench-cut on the right hand side of the creek.

Kind-of-a-Trail on the Right

Turns out, yes, it is an old road, and it goes for quite a while before petering out up a draw.

There are lots of boulder formations uphill of the old road, most of which are almost completely obscured in the summer.

Boulders

The last few years' storms have rerouted a stream and cut a new channel completely across the road.

New Cut Across the Road

That channel wasn't there at all the last time I was out there. This is the original channel.

Original Cut Across the Road

The power of water!

Speaking of water, we've gotten a lot of rain lately, and all of the little streams and creeks were really tumbling.

Tumbling Waters

Far enough up the Conner Mountain fork of Ward Creek there was a bit of a falls. It doesn't look like too much in the photo.

Falls on Conner Fork

So, here it is in action.

I guess it still doesn't look like more than just a raging stream in the video. Trust me, there are several cascades. I wish there was something there for scale. It's actually one of those falls that you can see less of the closer you are to it, but from far away, there are too many trees in the way to get a good view. Ehh, it was still a nice find.

I also found this old PBR can and immediately thought of Glen.

Old School PBR

Somebody graffitied a beech tree, but didn't put a year.

F.R. or F.A.

Come on, put a year!

Way out past where Old Cooper Gap Road crosses, there are a bunch of parallel trails that I always wanted to explore, but never did. They all come together at one point. You can go off in 7 different directions at that point, which I think is unique in the forest.

They were mostly just logging spurs. One of them seemed to get more Ranger Traffic than the rest.

Clean Trail 
	More Clean Trail 
	Ammo Can

But most were choked with deadfall or just generally overgrown.

Deadfall

One was a bit cleaner than the rest and may have been maintained as the continuation of the road I came in on for some time. It led out to the Cooper Gap Fork of Ward Creek, crossed it, and ended at what appeared to be a large circular area like you often see at the end of a proper forest road. A bit of a waterfall lay just upstream and downstream of the road.

Above...

Falls On Cooper Gap Fork 
	Falls on Cooper Gap Fork Closer 
	Falls on Cooper Gap Fork - Very Close

Below...

Falls on Cooper Gap Fork Below the Road

An old road led up along the fork almost all the way to Cooper Gap. I mean, it blended into the draw within a few hundred feet of it.

Some garbage had even made it down from the road.

Old Tire

The trail was mostly clear...

Nice Sidehill

...except for occasional, terrible deadfall...

Choked Sidehill

...but at higher elevations there were thorns and other brush. It wouldn't be any fun in the summer.

The creek itself was picturesque.

Cooper Gap Fork

The power of water was again on display though. Some very recent, very heavy erosion had made some interesting features. This one is deeper than it looks.

Very Recent, Very Heavy Erosion

Back at the 7-point intersection, I ended up on an old road that paralleled Old Cooper Gap Road, and appeared to have been a reroute of it. Or maybe vice-versa. Rather than leading up the ridge, it sidehilled it. It was less worn-in, but steeper. At a point, the other Old Cooper Gap Road came in from the left and joined it.

Up there I found an old tire.

Another old Tire

And a ton of big chunky rock, that I guess was blasted out to make the modern road, then just chucked downhill.

Chunky up By The Modern Road

There was also a very recent landslide up there that obliterated a section of the old road.

Very Recent Landslide

Woo! Looked like it just happened. When I got home I sent the USFS a note about it, just in case they didn't know. It was below the new road, but I've seen them close roads to mitigate slides below them from time to time.

Again, the power of water!

Further up there were additional tires. Goodness, all the tires.

Goodness, all the Tires

At a point, the old road just blended into the modern road, though it was a bit of work to actually scramble up to it.

I took Cooper Gap Road proper back to my truck. I'd been out for about 5 hours, it was getting to be late enough that the sun was well behind the mountain, and it was quite chilly up there.

Icicles

Here's a shot of the landslide from the road itself.

Landslide from the Road

And there was more of that "power of water" on the way down.

Recent Erosion 
	Recent Erosion - Other Side

Yikes!

Two different folks offered me a ride, and one lady commented: "Aren't you freezing?!" It was a bit chilly, but I had plenty of warm clothes in my pack. I was actually enjoying the cold though, as weird as that seems. How often do you find yourself walking a down a mountain road at dusk, in shadow, cold breeze in your face, with the west faces of the adjacent ridges blazing at you through the woods? I was enjoying the whole experience, I guess, cold included.

I eventually made it back to my car, headed home, and ended up stopping a little north of Cumming at Palapas for dinner.

Palapas

They have good Chili Colorado, which has been my go-to meal at unfamiliar Mexican restaurants of late. There was a huge family at one of the larger tables. Like 20 people or more. This one lady was so loud. I mean I could clearly hear everything she was saying from like 30 feet away. She wasn't yelling. She wasn't exceptionally garrulous. She wasn't talking to people at the other end of the table. Her natural speaking voice was just super loud. There was dynamic range in it. It wasn't just a constant steady loud volume that she couldn't control. I wondered if maybe it was just because she was facing me, but I watched the other people next to her, who were also facing me, and I could hear that they were talking, but I couldn't make out what they were saying. It must have been earsplitting to sit at the table with her, but nobody else at the table seemed to mind. It didn't ruin my evening or anything, but it was notable!

My knees and ankles were tired all evening and sore for most of the day today, which was a little surprising. Looking back though, the last time I did any significant hiking might have been in July of 2019 at Sloppy Floyd Park, and I remember back then thinking that it had been a while. Goodness. That's just too long. I like what hiking does for my joints. The bike is way better for cardio, but the moderate impact seems to keep my joints strong and healthy. When I was at my absolute fittest, I rode and hiked in nearly equal amounts, in hours at least. I also fished a lot.

Perhaps I should return to those old ways.

Ruby Falls

Does a cave count as "outdoor"? What if the cave was a commercial venture from day one? I mean, it is the natural world, but there's a gift shop, so...

For now, we'll assume that a cave with a waterfall counts as "outdoor". I may change my mind later, but by then it will be too late.

I was in Chattanooga this past weekend, buying old computers from a guy up there. When in Chattanooga, one must "See Ruby Falls". Or, so said every roof and barn within a 100 mile radius of it since the 1930's. Actually, I remember seeing a million of these in the late '90s, but I really haven't seen many since moving to Atlanta in 2000. At any rate though, I saw Ruby Falls and it was pretty darn awesome.

Ruby Falls Sign

Ruby Falls is inside of a cave on Lookout Mountain.

Lookout Mountain Historical Marker

The guy that discovered the cave had a girlfriend (fiance? wife?) named Ruby and he named it after her. He originally wanted to explore (and exploit commercially) the Lookout Mountain Cave, but it had been sealed up by the railroad. So, he (somehow!) convinced a bunch of investors to back him, bought the land above the cave and bored an elevator shaft straight down through the mountain. He pulled out enough rock to build a tower and a gift shop.

Ruby Falls Tower

The view from the tower is actually pretty spectacular.

View from Ruby Falls Tower

While digging though, they hit an opening earlier than they expected, and it turned out to be a completely unknown cave, about 18 inches tall. He crawled (literally) around for hours, discovered all kinds of amazing rock formations. He could eventually stand, and the cave just kept getting taller until it finally opened into a massive chamber with the waterfall in it. His investors were probably pretty happy when he described what he'd found.

They excavated a trail through the caverns deep enough to walk on, and it's been open to the public ever since.

While waiting for the elevator, there's this monitor displaying its weight and speed. When it was moving, it was always redlining.

Elevator Status - Moving (Redline!)

When it was loaded, they always loaded it into the yellow.

I thought it was funny that it was the only thing there was in the room to look at while you waited, and it wasn't especially reassuring.

Yeah, it's a total a tourist trap, but it REALLY delivers. I mean, just look at all of this!

Cave Formations 
	Crystal Chandelier and Totem Pole 
	Hall of Dreams 
	More Hall of Dreams 
	Hall of Dreams Ceiling 
	Leaning Tower 
	Bacon 
	Potato Chip 
	Tobacco Leaves 
	Niagra Falls 
	Elephant's Foot

And that's just on the way to the falls.

Then there's the falls itself!

Ruby Falls 
	Ruby Falls (Closer) 
	Ruby Falls with People for Scale

Bam!

Amazing.

I'd seen it in 1998 I think, then again in the early 2000's with the family, but I guess it's been long enough because I was genuinely amazed to see it again.

The chamber that the falls is in is called the Cathedral, and it's super, super tall.

The Cathedral

Even if there were no actual falls, the cave would be pretty amazing just on its own.

I bought a little tree made out of gold wire and rocks at the gift shop, then went and picked up the computers.

On the way out, I ended up at Sugar's Ribs. I've eaten there several times, actually. When driving out from Raccoon Mountain, it's kind-of right there. The computer guy just happened to live off of the same exit this time too.

They have goats.

Goats at Sugar's

They also have an amazing view of Lookout Mountain.

Lookout Mountain From Sugar's 
	Tennessee River

I half-considered staying overnight and maybe going to the Aquarium in the morning or something. But, I had stuff to do back at home, so instead, I drove around downtown a bit, walked halfway out on whatever bridge this is that gives you such a good view of the river, hung out there in the freezing wind for a while, grabbed some ice cream, and hit the road for home.

It was a pretty good trip. Almost Adventure.