Sunday, February 12, 2023

Lula Lake

Since last exploring the Cloudland Canyon area, I discovered that there were, in fact, 3 additional trail systems up that way - Moonshine, Durham, and the Lula Lake Core Preserve. Durham wasn't officially open yet, but the others were. It also looked like the CCT continued north from Nickajack, at least to the community of Lookout Mountain, at least according to the map.

Hmm...

On it!

A few weekends ago, I headed back up.

I'd planned on parking in the Lula Lake Lot, riding north and hitting the Moonshine stuff, maybe continuing on up to Lookout Mountain, then spinning back and hitting the Core Preserve. When I got there, though, the lot was full. Like, there was a sign saying that the lot was full, and don't park along the road.

Sold Out, No Parking

Interesting...

The CCT allegedly kept going up to the community of Lookout Mountain though, and it looked like I could figure out where it teed into the road up there, if I looked. Maybe I could park there and ride south. I headed up the road to figure all that out.

It turned out that what was labeled Lookout Mountain on the old topo map was actually Covenant College and a bunch of neighborhoods. The trail appeared to go through or skirt a park with a bunch of soccer fields. I also found where it crossed the road.

It looked like there were even more trails going north.

More Trails Going North NPS Trails Sign

So, as usual, I'd have more to explore at some future date.

It also turned out that there was a network of trails in and around the park.

Covenant College Trails

The "No Motorized Vehicles on the Trails Please" part of the sign even suggesting that non-motorized vehicles (like bikes) were allowed on the trails. So, again, even MORE to explore at some future date.

I ended up parking up near the road, getting changed, and running into a couple of ladies who had been out running earlier. They answered a few questions about the local system and pointed me to a connector leading to the lot from the CCT. Nice. I wouldn't have to go back out to the road to get on it.

And get on it, I did!

The CCT up there was more of that fast, benchy singletrack that I'd come to expect. I basically skirted the outside of the park before joining a gravel road. A sign said "CCT that way", but "that way" just led out to the main road and a gravel parking lot.

???

There were a couple of side trails though, so I checked them out, and it turned out that one of them was the CCT, though it was completely unmarked and looked more like a fire road than a fancy new bike trail.

I managed to explore all of the little side trails though, and all of them appeared to go to the same house, which was strange. There was also a jump line, and the jumps looked super tame. I was confident that I could safely ride them, but the last thing I needed was to be wrong and ruin my day. So, I figured I'd hit them when I got back, if I still felt strong.

The woods back there appeared to be an old ropes/climbing course.

Climbing Wall

I couldn't really tell if it was truly abandoned though. Some of it looked still usable, if not still in use.

The trail through there was more of that super fast, nontechnical bench action.

Well Traveled CCT Singletrack

I managed to miss a turn somewhere in there and end up heading back north for a while before running into some ladies who knew where they were. They gave me good directions though, and I managed to get back on the CCT pretty quickly.

It was pretty abrupt how less well traveled the CCT was south of the college system.

Less Well Traveled CCT Singletrack

Still pretty fast and fun though.

Somewhere in there I ran across some ruins, but they were kind-of spread out and difficult to get a good photo of.

Ruins

I could imagine in the summer, you might miss them entirely.

At a point, I crossed a right-of way, and I swear it was almost entirely downhill for the next several miles. I saw the White Lightning Trail off to my left, which was part of the Moonshine system. This was encouraging. I was on the right track. I eventually saw other trails too. All very encouraging.

The only creek crossing was at Gerber Branch:

Gerber Branch Bridge Gerber Branch Upstream Gerber Branch Downstream

It had that Appalachian creek feel to it, but it made me wonder of Lookout Mountain counts as even being part of the Appalachians. I guess it must be. It's not part of the Blue Ridge or Cohuttas or anything, but it must still be part of the Appalachians, right? Though Sawnee isn't... I'm sure the internet knows, but I'm too lazy to look it up right now.

Further on there was a cool bridge thing that led up onto a rock, but stopping to get that photo robbed me of the speed that I needed to get over the tricky roots and rocks at the top of the next hill.

Cool Bridge Thing

It was a bit of a climb up off of the creek, but it wasn't too far from there out to the road that I'd driven in on. Just down the road, like close enough that I could see it, was the lot that I'd wanted to park in. I rode down to it, hoping to see why it was so busy. I figured there might be an event going on, but it turned out no. The trail system is only open on the first and last weekend of each month, and to park in that lot, you had to purchase a permit online for $5. You could also buy a permit from these 2 (stoned) guys sitting under a pop-up tent, but only if there was room in the lot at that exact moment, which there never was.

Lula Lake Parking Area

I talked to the 2 aforementioned guys for a few minutes, and got the 411 on the system. All trails were open to bikes, and at the north end, there was a waterfall, which appeared to be the main attraction in the area. Since I wasn't parking a vehicle there, I was welcome to ride whatever I wanted, free of charge.

Awesome!

And, what luck, to have gotten there on a weekend that they were actually open.

They even gave me a map of the area. It turned out to be the same as a map that I had printed online, but it also had a bunch of route descriptions on it, which my map didn't have.

The "trail" to the falls was really just a gravel road. Part of it was paved, even. It looked like, maybe in the past you could just drive down there, but recently they closed it to vehicles. There was what looked like it used to be a parking loop for a picnic area, with all the standard trailhead amenities.

Lula Lake Area Kiosk Picnic Area See Rock City

My favorite thing was this privy:

#2 Only Privy

#2 only.

#2 Only

That lichen-covered See Rock City birdhouse thing was also cute. When I rode by the maintenance shed, I could see several more new-looking ones inside. Spares, I guess.

Down the road a bit, there was a cut going back left, lined by lego cliffs on both sides.

Lego Cliffs

It looked like a former route of the road. It was kind of narrow though. Maybe they needed to widen the road for vehicles and it was easier to reroute it than to blast all of that rock.

Hmm...

I passed like 100 people walking in both directions, along the road. So many that I really had to just roll it back to leisure mode and not even try to "ride". The falls seemed to be a pretty popular destination.

I eventually crossed over Rock Creek...

Bridge Over Rock Creek Rock Creek Facing Downstream Rock Creek Facing Upstream

...and rode through a really deep cut.

Old Railbed and Cut

This had to have been a railbed at some point. There's no way they'd make a cut like that for a wagon road.

When I made it through the cut, there were a bunch of picnic tables lined up along the old railbed ahead of me, and it was pretty open to the left.

I wasn't 100% prepared for how spectacular "the falls" was.

Upper Lula Falls Wide Shot Upper Lula Falls

In Georgia, nearly every falls is a sliding falls. It's pretty rare to see water pouring over the edge like that. Occasionally, it'll pittle over the edge of a big cave or something, but blasting over the edge like that is just about unheard of.

Wow!

The lake that it spilled into - Lula Lake, I guess, was equally beautiful.

Lula Lake

The photo doesn't do it justice. The water was so beautifully green! And off of that giant lego rock overhang behind it, dozens of little trickles run off of the overhang and drip into little permanent splashes in the lake. I abandoned my bike, climbed down and just stood there taking it all in for like 20 minutes.

Little did I know though...

Further downstream was an even more spectacular falls!

Lula Falls

This one was like 5 times the height of the other one.

There was a trail leading to the bottom, but it was kind-of long, and looked pretty sketchy in bike shoes, so I didn't risk it.

Again though, I just stood there looking at it, amazed, for like 10 minutes.

There were a bunch of other trails in the park, but looking at where they teed into the main road, none of them looked super fun to ride. They were either really steep, or stair-steppy, or super narrow. They looked fun to hike. Less fun on a bike. I would have to come back on foot, for sure.

As I headed back, I spotted a lady with a green vest and some informational-looking stuff on the table next to her. She seemed like she might be able to answer some questions.

First question: Was this a railbed?

Yes! And she had photos!

Train Next to Lula Falls Trestle

The train picked up coal from the 5 Points area, ran it down into the valley below, and eventually to Chattanooga and who-knows where else.

She even had a photo of one of the coal washers up by the mine.

Coal Washer

When I got home, I tried to see if I could make out the entire old railbed on Google Maps. It turned out that the terrain layer for that area is based on lidar data, and it was easy to follow the railbed up from the valley, all the way to 5 Points. I wonder how much of that is on public land.

My second question was: Why is the water so green?

The Little Colorado, for example, is super blue from the travertine deposits that it erodes. I expected an answer like that. Some mineral. Apparently the water isn't usually that green. It turns quite brown in the summer. She didn't really know why it was so green this time of year. I'll bet there's a reason though. Probably some mineral. I'll have to research that a bit...

There were 2 ladies and a dude hanging out, also asking questions, and we all got to talking. They all live in Chattanooga, and urged me to move to Chattanooga because of how fun it is to live there. We also got a good bit of the info lady's life story. She apparently moved around quite a bit.

I eventually started getting a little cold and had to get going, so we all said goodbye, and I took off back into that deep railroad cut, which was really freaking cold.

When I got back to that pop-up tent in the lot, I talked to the 2 stoned dudes again and they told me that they were wrong earlier: I actually was supposed to have paid them $5 for a permit, even if I wasn't going to park, but not to worry about it. It turned out that I actually had 2 $5 bills on me though, so I gave them one of them anyway!

I also talked to them about the CCT heading south. On a map I had at home, it looked like it went all the way to Nickajack Road, but their map didn't extend that far south. They assured me that it did though, and that it was, in fact, open to bikes, and that my $5 covered the permit that I needed to ride it.

Ha!

So, I rode back to that picnic area earlier, and crossed the Bridge With the Most Dangerous Steps of All Time.

South Creek Trail Bridge South Creek Trail Bridge Steps

Seriously, those steps are like 8 feet high and fairly narrow. The bridge is even narrower. When I got to the top step, I had to adjust my bike on my shoulder to fit through the space, and nearly stepped over the edge when doing so. It's a long way down.

The trail on the other side reminded me of the Pine Mountain trails. Open to bikes, but not specifically intended to be ridden.

I don't ride trails like that too often these days though, so it was a lot of fun, if slow going.

The run along the creek was a real treat.

Rock Creek

I had to make several turns to stay on the CCT, but they were all well marked.

CCT Marker

The trail kind-of alternated between fast and fun and very technical. I eventually popped out on Nickajack Road, but looking back at the trail... If I didn't know it was there, I wouldn't know it was there. I don't remember any little carsonite signs or anything. There was certainly nothing up by the road.

I took roads back to the lot, then continued up a bit and started backtracking on the CCT. I'd done all kinds of stuff, but still hadn't actually ridden the Moonshine Trails. It was finally time to do that.

I first rode Firewater, which was a blue trail, and yeah, it was definitely more challenging than the CCT, but not super difficult. It was appropriately blue, I'd say.

About halfway around, there were some weird, discarded concrete footings lying near the trail.

Weird Footings or Something

I guess a road must have led out to that spot at some point.

Off of Firewater, there was a black side trail called Bathtub Gin. I took that, then rode another lap of Firewater without taking it the second time. Bathtub Gin was definitely more challenging that Firewater. Appropriately black.

Coming off of Firewater the second time, I ran into a guy with a dog and we talked a bit. He said folks usually climb the CCT and descend White Lightning from the north. It's a good climb, but obviously way more fun to descend. It was the only trail left that I hadn't ridden though, and I needed to be heading back to my car, so I figured I'd climb it anyway. He was also planning on climbing it that day, so I followed him for a while before he eventually let me by. It was funny, there were a bunch of switchbacks, he was never more than 1 switchback below me, and his dog kept cross-cutting them up to where I was, then waiting for him, then cross-cutting again. It was fun to have a (friendly) dog chasing me.

I eventually got back on the CCT and started heading up towards the college. I had to stop for something though, at some point. Maybe to put my windbreaker on or something, and the guy and his dog caught me when I was stopped.

Him: "I have a crazy idea... I'm parked down at the church, past the Lula lot. You want to bomb all the way back down there and I'll give you a ride back to your car?"

Me: "Heck yeah, let's go!"

And, man did we bomb back down. He was totally right, White Lightning is super, super fun to descend. We switched off leaders several times, and it was also super fun to follow someone. I don't get a lot of changes to do that these days.

I want to say there were 2 little kicks somewhere down in there, including one that had that weird bridge-to-rock thing on it. That time though, since I didn't stop to take a picture, I was able to carry speed into the tricky roots and rocks at the top of the next climb, and make it up. Ha!

When we got back to his car, he introduced himself. He was Corby and his dog was May Bell. Not Mabel, but May Bell. He lived up north in Fairyland, which is actually a place. I didn't make that up. A bunch of the neighborhoods up there are named after Rock City attractions, including his.

Corby

We had a great time talking about all kinds of stuff on the way back. Then he dropped me off at my truck and headed off.

Super cool guy, I hope I run into him again!

Looking at strava, I hadn't even ridden 30 miles, but somehow it had taken all day. That's how it is when you're exploring, though.

I was starving, and I knew exactly where I wanted to eat - The Lookout Mountain Pizza Co. I'd stopped by the last time I was up there, but they hadn't opened up for the evening yet. I figured they'd have to be open by the time I arrived, so I headed down that way. It was a pretty straight shot too. I was on Scenic Hwy, and they were also on Scenic Hwy, just a ways south.

On the trip down, I realized why it was called Scenic Hwy, or more specifically The Lookout Mountain Scenic Parkway. There are some pretty breathtaking views to the west from right along the road. I'll have to ride it some time, and take some photos.

I eventually arrived at my destination...

Lookout Mountain Pizza Co

And, yes, they were open!

Being alone, I sat at "the bar", which faced a wall, but from where I sat, I could see the kitchen pretty well. They had a proper wood-fired pizza oven going. Hmmm... This might be pretty good.

They brought me a tallboy coke to drink.

Tallboy Coke

Followed by a damn good wood-fired pizza.

Pizza

Man, it was good! It was so good that the next time I was at Siracusa's I apologized to Dave for cheating on him, but figured it was better that he hear it from me than from someone else. IDK if I can describe it right, but wood-fired pizza tends to form thin little almost-burned bubbles, and they're a little bitter, but if you eat one with a bite of sauce and cheese too, it all works very well together. It was like that.

Mmm, so good.

Cloudland Canyon (Again)

I'd had a satisfying time at Cloudland Canyon that one weekend, but it had been really cold, I'd also had to cut it a little short to get home in time for whatever, and as a result, really didn't ride everything that I had wanted to up there. So, the next weekend, I got up earlier, and didn't have the same trouble navigating out there. It was also a good bit warmer, so I figured I'd have a better time overall.

This time, I parked in the Ascalon Road Lot and just planned to ride all of the trails to the south.

This worked out well. I ripped south/west to the Cloudland Canyon "Backcountry" Lot...

Trail Marker

...made a quick trip through the local privy...

Privy

...and immediately got to shredding the rest of the system.

There's a loop at the far end called Pathkiller, and a spur off of it that led back to the CCT called Prince Albert. There's another Prince Albert Section north/east of that. These trails were all pretty similar to the CCT in difficulty. Then there were Atlatl and Barkeater as I continued on. Both marginally more difficult than the CCT.

Hanging off of Barkeater, though, was Kindergarten. At the intersection with Barkeater, there were all these tailings piled up, south of the trail.

Tailings

I saw the sign for Kindergarten, but didn't immediately see where I was supposed to go. It turned out that this was both because the route I was supposed to take wasn't immediately obvious as being rideable, and also because it didn't look like nearly as many people were up for the challenge as were up for Barkeater.

The trail was pretty much one big rock-crawl, end to end, for about half a mile.

Rocks on Kindergarten

There were a bunch of switchbacks, ledges, spots you had to just bounce up, spots where you had to let your tires slip in... It was super tricky. The difference between Barkeater and Kindergarten was way bigger than the difference between the CCT and Barkeater. It was a lot of fun though, if you're into that kind of thing. The challenge becomes not to dab, and I only had to dab once, so I fell pretty good about it. Definitely want to ride it again.

I eventually ended up back at Barkeater, hung a right such that I was able to have ridden the entire trail, then turned around and rode it out.

And, that was kind-of it. Barkeater puts you out close to Ascalon and I just didn't feel like riding much else that day. I'd tweaked my back out the previous Sunday, and though it wasn't hurting at the time, it was questionable, and I didn't want to put too many miles on it. It would turn out later to have been fine, but I didn't know that at the time.

Oh, yeah, also, on the way back I sent this photo to my youngest...

Lafayette Sign

...who is in Lafayette Louisiana with Madi. I thought it was funny that I was also in Lafayette.

Huh huh.

Cloudland Canyon

I don't remember how long ago I first rode Five Points. Fifteen years ago, I think. I rode there once by myself, I think, then me and Travis rode there. Or maybe it was just me and Travis? It was that long ago. I tried to go ride there with my Dad once too, but despite the 10% chance of rain, it was storming when we arrived. We ended up getting some really good Mexican food on the way home though. Like memorably good. So, it wasn't a total loss. But it does take 2 hours and change to get up there from the atlanta area, so we didn't hurry back.

Years later (again, I don't remember how long ago), I discovered that there were way more trails up there, and that 2 hour and change drive up didn't seem so not-worth-it. But, apparently it was, for some time, because I never did get back up there. "Lula Land Trust" made it on to my list of places to explore though, and eventually, just last month, in fact, percolated to the top.

The drive up is seemingly simple - take 75 north to 136, then take that west, all the way to the top of Lookout Mountain, then take 157 north and park at the Ascalon Lot, Five Points Lot, or Nickajack Lot. There are even signs for Cloudland Canyon along 136, telling you which way go to. SEEMINLGY simple! But there is an unmarked turn near LaFayette. You have to turn right to stay on 136, but there is no sign that says this. If you look down the road, there is a sign down there saying that you are on 136, but you'd have to think to look that way to notice it, and it's just some random road. You'd be unlikely to look down it. There's also no Cloudland Canyon sign at that intersection either. Even worse, on the way back there's a similar situation. So, if you use GPS to get you everywhere, you'll have no trouble, but if you're like me, and you only use it to get places that you don't "know" how to get to, you'll have some trouble.

So, on my way up there, I missed the turn, figured out my mistake, corrected it, and eventually made it to the Nickajack Road Trailhead.

Nickajack Sign

There were few of us there, presumably because it was like 28 degrees or something outside.

Nickajack Lot

The lot was really well furnished.

There was a changing maze:

Changing Maze

A composting privy:

Privy Nickajack Privy

One scoop per poop, please:

1 Scoop Per Poop

Funny thing... Later on, while riding, my mind began to wander, as ones mind tends to do, and I started thinking about that "one scoop per poop" thing. Did they mean one scoop per individual poop? Nah, can't be. Must be one per visit to the privy. What if you sat there a really long time? At what point would one visit be equivalent to multiple visits? Oooh, what if you took an absolutely enormous poop? Would that warrant 2 scoops? Would it be the volume or surface area that would matter? Yeah. That's my brain. Go ahead and try to turn that off. It's like trying to not think of a polar bear. You're automatically thinking of one.

Lord.

It couldn't have been more obvious where to go to get on the trail...

Nickajack Trail Entrance

...or where you were going.

CCT Signage

The trail I was on was called the "CCT" or Cloudland Canyon Connector Trail. This also baked my noodle. Cloudland Canyon Connector Trail should be CCCT. Were they compressing "Cloudland Canyon" into one C or dropping "Connector"? Alternatively, the trail was named Long Branch, as it roughly followed the Long Branch of Rock Creek, which I would later learn was a very significant part of the local watershed.

The trail itself was kinda bumpy and debris-covered. It wasn't the sculpted, bench cut, purpose-built singletrack that I usually encounter these days. Though, it was also fairly flat. Not much bench to be cut up there, really.

Clounland Canyon Connector Trail

The first creek crossing was impressive. The bridge was really well made.

Bridge on the CCT

And, to the right, there was a very well constructed equestrian crossing.

Equestrian Crossing

You can't tell in the photos, but it was still uncomfortalbly cold.

Creek Crossing

It's funny, you start out cold, get colder, then eventually get warmer, then eventually can't imagine not being comfortable, until evening starts rolling around. Every year, I forget this, then relearn it.

I passed a family out hiking after a mile or so, then a group of riders heading the other direction a few miles later. By that point, the trail had become more benchy and purpose-built-looking, but it was also very chunky, which was fun.

Chunky

I remember crossing several gravel roads, and after a while, several private trails teed into the main trail.

Private Trail Sign Private Trail Sign

And, then, abruptly, I crossed a paved road, and I was at the north end of 5 Points.

I recognized it immediately from all of the tailings.

Tailings More Tailings

The whole 5 Points area was once, at one point, a giant coal mine.

By then, I was comfortably warm and riding pretty well. Ripping that singeletrack.

Sweet Singletrack

There are a bunch of trails at 5 Points...

Lots of Options

...but I stuck to the CCT. I had planned to take it as far south as it went, then hit some other trais on the way back.

At 5 Points proper, there was leftover snow on the trees and even on the ground.

Actual Snow Leftover Snow

It was probably just above freezing at that point, which was about as warm as it had been up there for a while. That snow was from like a week ago.

I had actually ridden that part of the CCT before, way back, and it was vaguely familiar. I especially remembered the twisty run into the Ascalon Lot, and recognized where I was when I encountered that.

It was all new territory to the south though. None of it had even been built when I was up there last. Really though, it was more of the same - benchy singletrack, a little rough and rocky, here and there, not too much elevation.

CCT Singletrack

At Bear Creek, there was a bridge.

Bridge on the CCT

And there were lego rocks to either side.

Lego Rocks

I felt like I'd been riding for a while when I finally got to Cloudland Canyon park proper.

Cloudland Canyon Lot Sign

I looked and looked, but it didn't appear that the CCT continued. My original plan had been to take the CCT to that point, then take other trails back, but I'd underestimated the distance. I'd ridden about 18 miles so far, and given that the other trails added distance, and were more difficult trails, it would be more than 20 in the other direction, and would only take longer. I don't specifically remember why I cared, but I wanted to make it back home in time for something. Maybe to watch a playoff game? IDK. I remember reasoning that if I took trails back, I wouldn't make it, and that I'd better take roads back.

This decision turned out to be a mixed blessing. On the one hand, it did take a lot less time to get back. On the other hand, the open road was a lot colder than being in the woods.

A lot.

I ended up putting my windbreaker and leg warmers back on after about a mile, and it was adequate, but I never fully warmed back up.

On the upside, it was a long climb out of the park.

Cloudland Canyon State Park Sign

And then there were several long climbs on the way back to the car.

Climbing on the Road

So, that helped keep me warm.

I also passed this interesting building on the way back. I'd seen it on the drive in.

The End of the Meth Labs Surve God Onlye

I mean, it looked like one big art project. Did someone just live there, or was it a shop of some kind? I couldn't immediately tell looking at it. While I was taking pictures, some guy came out though, and dumped a big pile of what looked like cut-off fence boards on the ground outside. We said hi to each other quickly, then he just went right back inside.

???

I moved on.

At some point, while riding up the Scenic Hwy, rock city was perfectly framed ahead of me. You know how they say "See Rock City!" I could See Rock City!

I Can See Rock City

And that was it. Fairly uneventful, but everything I rode was great to ride, and there was more to explore. Success in my book.

And, the icing on the cake... Mountain Dew Livewire is my favorite drink, but they don't sell it around here. I usually run into it in Mississippi or Louisiana. It can also be found in the far northwest corner of Georgia, though, apparently!

Livewire

Score!